Home / Erik's stuff / 2000 Honda Civic HX / Engine Performance Modifications. / Installs / Skunk2 Intake Manifold and Hondata Gasket Installation. 24
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After the swap I seemed to have a good deal more of vibration, especially in the pedals (later fount to be a rubbing issue of my oil relocation kit rubbing on my clutch cylinder). Overall Im pleased with the new manifold. Soon Ill need to go get some dyno - After the swap I seemed to have a good deal more of vibration, especially in the pedals (later fount to be a rubbing issue of my oil relocation kit rubbing on my clutch cylinder). Overall Im pleased with the new manifold. Soon Ill need to go get some dyno pulls to see what sort of changes I'll see form the swap. - SANY0748.jpg
Next attach the charge pipe and the throttle cable. The new manifold sits higher so hoepfully you have some slack in your charge piping. Also at a glance it looks like the throttle cable bracket sits too high and wont clear the hood. IT WILL CLEAR THE HOO - Next attach the charge pipe and the throttle cable. The new manifold sits higher so hoepfully you have some slack in your charge piping. Also at a glance it looks like the throttle cable bracket sits too high and wont clear the hood. IT WILL CLEAR THE HOOD. Dont worry about it. Later you can perhaps make your own or Ive heared that using a type R bracket will work also. You may also notice that I had to lower my PCV valve a bit (for use with my catch can) so that the new charge pipe location would clear it. - SANY0749.jpg
And there you have it. It took me about 7 hours to do the swap. I did have to cut my own throttle body gasket though (not pictured cause I dont reccomend it) and I had to run to the hardware store 2times for the right bolts. I also cleaned up a bit of my - And there you have it. It took me about 7 hours to do the swap. I did have to cut my own throttle body gasket though (not pictured cause I dont reccomend it) and I had to run to the hardware store 2times for the right bolts. I also cleaned up a bit of my wire harness under the manifold. - SANY0747.jpg
Now put the new throttle body gasket into place and attach the throttle body. You will need four #8 metric bolts. You can see here that I decided on stainless hex head bolts. Then plug in your map sensor and TPS. - Now put the new throttle body gasket into place and attach the throttle body. You will need four #8 metric bolts. You can see here that I decided on stainless hex head bolts. Then plug in your map sensor and TPS. - SANY0744.jpg
I had to ghetto rig my vaccum manifold back into place since Skunk2 removed my origional mounting point. - I had to ghetto rig my vaccum manifold back into place since Skunk2 removed my origional mounting point. - SANY0746.jpg
See how nicely it looks here though. Perhaps sometime down the road Ill actualy have a nice looking mount made up out of aluminum. Oh as for the reason Ive looped 2 nipples on the manifold its bcause I used the other small nipples for the boost gauge and - See how nicely it looks here though. Perhaps sometime down the road Ill actualy have a nice looking mount made up out of aluminum. Oh as for the reason Ive looped 2 nipples on the manifold its bcause I used the other small nipples for the boost gauge and the FPR. - SANY0741.jpg
Now you need to put all of the 12mm nuts back on. Torque them slightly over stock settings. I suggest about 20-25 ft lbs. Because of the hondata spacer and the casting of the manifold I was unable to put the top center nut back on as the threads wouldnt c - Now you need to put all of the 12mm nuts back on. Torque them slightly over stock settings. I suggest about 20-25 ft lbs. Because of the hondata spacer and the casting of the manifold I was unable to put the top center nut back on as the threads wouldnt catch. I will later grind this a bit in order to get it to fit on there. Also here Ive started putting everything back together. PVC/catch can line, the valvecover breather, and fuel lines. - SANY0742.jpg
The PVC nipple has moved from underneath the old manifold to a convenient new location on top of the manifold. - The PVC nipple has moved from underneath the old manifold to a convenient new location on top of the manifold. - SANY0738.jpg
Here you can see I just used a plain piece of coolant hose. - Here you can see I just used a plain piece of coolant hose. - SANY0739.jpg
Here you can see that Ive put on the hondata gasket. Its natuarally bowd like that out of the package. - Here you can see that Ive put on the hondata gasket. Its natuarally bowd like that out of the package. - SANY0740.jpg
Then you can slide the new manifold into place. At this point I have already swapped over the various sensors and the fuel system from the old manifold. It should be pretty obvious. If you cant figure it out just by looking at the 2 then youre probably al - Then you can slide the new manifold into place. At this point I have already swapped over the various sensors and the fuel system from the old manifold. It should be pretty obvious. If you cant figure it out just by looking at the 2 then youre probably already in over your head and should seek out a professional to do this. Oh by the way you will need some #6 metric bolts to connect the fuel rail to the new manifold. The new manifold has no studs for the rail or for the throttle body either. - SANY0736.jpg
After its removed you need to use a razor blade and clean off any left over gasket that is still stuck to the block. - After its removed you need to use a razor blade and clean off any left over gasket that is still stuck to the block. - SANY0737.jpg
Here is a bypass tube that ran under the stock manifold. I opted to remove this piece as you cant use the manifold support on the new manifold. - Here is a bypass tube that ran under the stock manifold. I opted to remove this piece as you cant use the manifold support on the new manifold. - SANY0735.jpg
In order to remove the entire manifold (as seen here) you need to remove any vaccume lines and coolant lines connected to it. (pretty self explanitory). you will also need to pull out or move out of the way the small black canister that is located under t - In order to remove the entire manifold (as seen here) you need to remove any vaccume lines and coolant lines connected to it. (pretty self explanitory). you will also need to pull out or move out of the way the small black canister that is located under the stock manifold. After that remove all of the 12mm nuts that hold the manifold to the block. You may need to use a screw driver and slightly pry it away. - SANY0734.jpg
Next we get under the car to remove the support bracket from the manifold. If you need more info on this check out the "Catch Can Install". - Next we get under the car to remove the support bracket from the manifold. If you need more info on this check out the "Catch Can Install".